My experience with them was what I found with all AMT guns. The lower the prefix (Axxxx, Bxxxx, Cxxxx)and serial number, the better. I just picked up an AMT Hardballer.45 auto at a local gun show for 0.00 out the door. The right side of the frame has a serial number A0181X, the.

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Actually, I've got 3.380s and one of the somewhat rarer.22LR's. They were a great design and well made. They CAN be made extremely reliable by someone who knows what their doing. The main problem was the stainless steel parts were sand blasted investment castings. Not necessarily a bad thing, but the factory never took the time to polish the feed ramp and slide/frame rails and OD of the barrel and a few other parts that don't slide together well with such a rough surface.

Once these surfaces are lapped & mated or polished, it's a slick & reliable little pistol. PS, It seems the later the guns were made, the rougher they got. The company(s) OMC-TDE-AMT and then IAI seemed to move around a bit and YES, quality control was all the place over too.

I just picked up an AMT Hardballer.45 auto at a local gun show for $380.00 out the door. The right side of the frame has a serial number A0181X, the AMT and crescent logo, and Arcadia, CA. I have already taken it out the the club to test fire it. It fed and fired everything I ran through it including hollow points and some trunicated cone cast bullets without a hitch.

I informed him that is Hardballer is a hardball gun for life. He's ok with that. If yours works well, be greatful and be satisfied with what you have. Chances are it will give you good service.

Good luck and. I've owned mine for about 10 years and I've ran over 2500 rnds through it without any FTF or FTEs.

Pistol gobbled up the 200gr JHP's with no issue.Infact you can chamber a spent round! So it looks like this AMT is one of the better ones. I am experiencing a problem where the safety wants to chew on my thumb Right at the base of my thumb just a bit outside the web of my hand. Any suggestions on overcoming safety bites? I'd like to thank all of you who have responded.

If yours works well, be greatful and be satisfied with what you have. Chances are it will give you good service. If any gunsmith says he can customize it for you, I would question his judgment as no reputable gunsmith that I know of will work on a hardballer.

They CAN be made extremely reliable by someone who knows what their doing. The main problem was the stainless steel parts were sand blasted investment castings. Not necessarily a bad thing, but the factory never took the time to polish the feed ramp and slide/frame rails and OD of the barrel and a few other parts that don't slide together well with such a rough surface.

I am experiencing a problem where the safety wants to chew on my thumb Right at the base of my thumb just a bit outside the web of my hand. Any suggestions on overcoming safety bites? As I recall, the Hardballers had a very rough sandblasted finish on some parts, such as the safety. Try smoothing the roughness off where it's hitting you with something like a rat-tail file, or maybe a Dremel.

I informed him that is Hardballer is a hardball gun for life. He's ok with that. If yours works well, be greatful and be satisfied with what you have. Chances are it will give you good service. If any gunsmith says he can customize it for you, I would question his judgment as no reputable gunsmith that I know of will work on a hardballer. Enjoy yours, GunGeek. How involved is blueprinting the gun?

Anything that's not right gets replaced with a fresh GI or Colt-spec part. Sometimes there's not much to do. Sometimes you have to 'finish' the gun for the manufacturer.

PS, It seems the later the guns were made, the rougher they got. The company(s) OMC-TDE-AMT and then IAI seemed to move around a bit and YES, quality control was all the place over too. Covina, North Hollywood, El Monte, Irwindale. The lower the prefix (Axxxx, Bxxxx, Cxxxx)and serial number, the better.

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Try smoothing the roughness off where it's hitting you with something like a rat-tail file, or maybe a Dremel. I had this exact same problem with an ODI Viking and I just filed and smoothed till it didn't gnaw on me any more. I've sent it off to Mike LaRocca. I asked him if it was worth what I paid for it and he said 'If you want to sell it for that, I'll cut you a check right now!' I'm getting the ejection port lowered and flared, a carry bevel and the barrel fitted and a National Match link installed as well as a Beavertail saftey and Commander hammer, Also Mike wanted to put a new aluminum trigger in the gun, although he said it did have a decent trigger pull and feels like it should have been shooting real well. Mike said he had done quite a few Harballers when he was at Pachmayr's custom shop.

The same is true for the.41JMP,.30,.25 and.22LMP. Presently, loaded ammunition is available from Cor-Bon as well as, and new.44 AMP brass is available from Starline Brass. The dedicated handloader can form AMP cases from or brass, using a series of forming dies and an inside neck reamer.

ETA: It was reliable with FMJ ammo only. This was before 'truncated FMJ' was popular. I highly doubt if it would feed HP or truncated FMJ ammo though. I traded it years ago.

Look up AMT inc. (arcadia machine & tool) that was one of the companys names at first of from what i hear many, most were in southern cal. Mine was made in West Covina ca.

AMT overcame this issue by drilling 18 holes at 90 degrees to the chamber. A sleeve was then welded over the chamber; providing a tiny amount of clearance for the excess gas to escape from the first set of holes on back to the second set, thereby relieving the pressure enough to prevent the case from sticking.' Really looks funny when the case is extracted with the burnt marks in the case. Little dots all away around the casing. Now the wife and I joined the local shooting club we look forward to shooting this gun again. Should be fun.

• Features: Ribbed barrel. • Production: 1970–2002 • Price: Original retail $217.50 later increased to $275 ($425 for a paired.44 AMP and.357 AMP barrel kit) Designations [ ] Between 1971 and 2002 the Auto Mag would wear eleven different names: • AM, Pasadena, California (Made in Pasadena, Calif.) • TDE, North Hollywood, California (Made in El Monte, Calif.) There was never a North Hollywood factory. • TDE, El Monte, California (Made in El Monte, Calif.) • TDE, El Monte, California, High Standard (Made in El Monte, Calif.) • TDE, El Monte, California, Lee Jurras (Made in El Monte, Calif.) Most custom work by Lee Jurras • TDE, El Monte, California, Kent Lomont (Made in El Monte, Calif.) Custom work by Kent Lomont • TDE / OMC, El Monte, California (Made in El Monte, Calif.) • AMT, Covina, California (Receivers made in Covina, Calif. Tamil bible free download for laptop.

Here are a few pictures.

I'm also hoping to see if there are any FTE, FTF, 3-point jams, etc. So far I've put about 40 rounds through the gun and had 1 hiccup which may have been an operator error more than an issue with the gun.

The beaver tail and the refinish stopped the thumb safety from gnawing on my thumb. I have put 300+ rounds through it since Wednesday and it just seems to get better and better. I fired a group that I still can't believe, I managed to put 4 of 7 shots in a group that could be covered with a quarter at 15 yards and that was shot with WWB 230gr. The gun is more accurate than I am. I put some Hydra Shoks and Gold Dots through it without a hiccup.

They are very well built. New guns have a tendency to have a glitch or two; the tight-azzed gun owners had no tolerance for the glitches and so the 'POS' label was placed upon them. It's strange the the glitches for Colt, Kimber, and Springfields were tolerable but not the AMT/IAI. There is a niche for the AMT/IAI line of firearms and they do command collector prices; if they were P'sOS their value and prices would not be increasing the way they are currently doing. In fact they have a better resale value than Kimber. The Hardballer price will depend on condition and caliber; serial number may not effect the value. The AutoMag III is one fabulous handgun and very sought after.

With all this said, Hi Standard seems to have omitted the port system and it is reported that the new design works well without it and with most ammo. The original guns were engineered around the Winchester Super X ammo and the guns would not function with Federal or CCI.

The 'M' prefix only means it was one of the early models before some changes were made. 'C' series were second and after some final changes were made in order to perfect the design. And I believe the 'H' designation means it's made by Hi Standard. XP001 is correct in everything he said. I will add that the early model Hold Open assy's were flawed in that the little ball bearing which is peened in place would jump up under fire and hold the slide open intermittently and also could come out of it's pocket. Not all did this. We saw a lot of these come back for replacement of the new design which was incorporated into the later model 'C' & 'H' series.

The Warlord 1: 4/3 (1976), DC • (27 July 2010). A Drink Before the War. • Rosenberger, Joseph N. (1 January 1981). Death Merchant, No. 3: The Psychotron Plot. Pinnacle Books.

And a bullet protruding partway out the muzzle! My gun whisked away to become a photo queen. Winchester soon got a boatload of ammo back over that matter as my Agency was returning such from multiple field offices! I'm not sure what lot(s) became suspect.

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Sometimes there's not much to do. Sometimes you have to 'finish' the gun for the manufacturer. This is all just for smooth and reliable functioning. If you're talking about accurizing, Charlie could give you more details on that than I can. It's been nearly 20 years but I seem to recall having to replace one part in my friend's Hardballer--the sear or disconnector or hammer or extractor, something like that. It wasn't a big deal to replace it.

The company(s) OMC-TDE-AMT and then IAI seemed to move around a bit and YES, quality control was all the place over too. Covina, North Hollywood, El Monte, Irwindale. The lower the prefix (Axxxx, Bxxxx, Cxxxx)and serial number, the better. If you decide ya don't want to be bothered and get rid of it, and it's got an A thru D prefix.

I'd like to thank all of you who have responded. I am experiencing a problem where the safety wants to chew on my thumb Right at the base of my thumb just a bit outside the web of my hand. Any suggestions on overcoming safety bites? As I recall, the Hardballers had a very rough sandblasted finish on some parts, such as the safety. Try smoothing the roughness off where it's hitting you with something like a rat-tail file, or maybe a Dremel.

I suggest you send it to the city dump. I had one once.

My other one is a CM serial, and was bought in '99. It's not as good.

This excerpt is from wikipedia, 'There were a number of engineering challenges to overcome in designing an autoloading.22 WMR handgun. Not the least of which are extraction problems. The extraction problems stem from the fact that the slow burning rifle powder of the.22 WMR cartridge develops a late peak pressure.

Actually, I've got 3.380s and one of the somewhat rarer.22LR's. They were a great design and well made. They CAN be made extremely reliable by someone who knows what their doing. The main problem was the stainless steel parts were sand blasted investment castings. Not necessarily a bad thing, but the factory never took the time to polish the feed ramp and slide/frame rails and OD of the barrel and a few other parts that don't slide together well with such a rough surface. Once these surfaces are lapped & mated or polished, it's a slick & reliable little pistol.

Not to expect anything in the manner of help beyond simply cutting to the chase and disavowing any prior knowledge. This a fact of American and most international corporate life! And of course yet to add the 'final related shoe'.

Point the gun in a safe direction and dry fire it. You may have to give the trigger a couple good pulls but eventually the safety lever starts to move all the way down to the fire position. I'm not the only one this has happen to since I've checked the internet and found that it's happend to other as well. I wouldn't carry this gun with a round in the chamber EVER!

Good luck and. I've owned mine for about 10 years and I've ran over 2500 rnds through it without any FTF or FTEs. So I'd have to say I got one of the good ones lol!I have several of the automag series. All work fine. My automag V actually was returned to the factory for service after the first shot damaged the hammer, It was repaired and sent back, free of charge ( as it should have been. When i sent it in, I asked the repair person to 'get some range time with it and fire it as much as they wanted to before sending it back, because I wanted a working gun' When i got it back there was a test target and some empty brass in the box. It has worked fine since.